Monday, December 04, 2006
Christchurch – Wanaka - Queenstown – Te Anau
Like many, I assumed Australia and New Zealand were next-door neighbours. In reality they are separated by a two and a half hour plane ride and a two-hour time difference. The helpful camper van people collected us from the airport and guided us through the water-filling, water-emptying and poo-cleaning routine that goes with living on the road. It soon became clear why our camper cost considerably less than all the others: it is about ten years older and a thousand kilos heavier. Its maiden voyage through Christchurch was like trying to drive a double-decker bus though the Ilac Centre car park. We hadn’t realised how unprepared we were for this part of the journey until the woman at passport control in Christchurch airport had asked us where we were travelling and we both stared blankly back - we had absolutely no idea. On our first night at a campsite in Christchurch a nice Australian couple made suggestions for a route.
We were also completely ill-equipped for the change in weather. Our first requirement was shoes for the boys and some long sleeves. On our second night in freezing temperatures, I slept in trousers, a fleece and a hat. Climate change has visited this country too, and several locals told us that it is surprisingly cold for the time of year, which is meant to be the start of Summer. Despite the chilly days, the (occasionally glimpsed) sun is still hot enough to burn and we soon acquired faces weathered red from the sun and blustery wind. After the comforts of Sydney, the camper was something of a shock and the cramped conditions seemed to aggravate the already irritable parents at first. The wonderful landscapes of the South Island soon distracted us though, and we settled into a routine after a couple of days. The small towns remind me a little of the mid-western US states - large farms, wooden houses and empty roads, yet there is still something quite British about New Zealand. Houses have quaint gardens with manicured lawns and rose beds. High streets have chip shops that sell battered cod and meat pies. South Island countryside is absolutely stunning. It’s as green as Ireland (‘Ireland, widescreen’, as Liam C puts it) yet with giant, alpine mountain ranges and turquoise lakes everywhere. Palm trees are mixed in with pines and multicoloured lupins. Endless yellow Scottish Broom looks just like the gorse of North Donegal.
We wound our way south from Christchurch to Fairlie, to Lake Takapo and on to Wanaka, staying at campsites along the way. The sites are superbly equipped and well run and it is an excellent way to see the country. A shortcut via the Cardrona Road from Wanaka to Queenstown seemed like a good idea at the time until we realised – too late – that it was through the mountains. The campervan barely crawled up and down the steep sides and around the hairpin bends and we were relieved when Queenstown was finally in sight. Queenstown is the capital of extreme sports in NZ. Instead of standard shopfronts, every doorway advertises another whacky activity; some of the predictable sort such as tandem or bungy jumps; and a variety of other newly-invented ‘sports’ like river dogging (lying on a small board in a river) and canyon swinging. Anything to make a buck, even if some of the activities seem to have been invented last week. We had a laugh at a gangly young guy in a Cork GAA jersey, swinging through the canyon with a tricolour attached to his ankle. You’d never be stuck for something to do in Queenstown and wallets empty fast. Options for adventure sports are limited with kids in tow so we settled on ‘street luge’ as something that might please everyone. A purpose-built track starts at the top of the mountain nearby and descends over 800 metres. A trip to the top in a cable car and an open ski lift is included, and adults can double up with small kids for the kart descent. The kids got a variety of experiences for one price and the boys particularly enjoyed the humps in the track where the kart becomes airborne. Hazel, despite reservations, negotiated the course like a pro. A good day out for a reasonable sum, as Queenstown goes.
New Zealand photos on Flickr
Like many, I assumed Australia and New Zealand were next-door neighbours. In reality they are separated by a two and a half hour plane ride and a two-hour time difference. The helpful camper van people collected us from the airport and guided us through the water-filling, water-emptying and poo-cleaning routine that goes with living on the road. It soon became clear why our camper cost considerably less than all the others: it is about ten years older and a thousand kilos heavier. Its maiden voyage through Christchurch was like trying to drive a double-decker bus though the Ilac Centre car park. We hadn’t realised how unprepared we were for this part of the journey until the woman at passport control in Christchurch airport had asked us where we were travelling and we both stared blankly back - we had absolutely no idea. On our first night at a campsite in Christchurch a nice Australian couple made suggestions for a route. 
We were also completely ill-equipped for the change in weather. Our first requirement was shoes for the boys and some long sleeves. On our second night in freezing temperatures, I slept in trousers, a fleece and a hat. Climate change has visited this country too, and several locals told us that it is surprisingly cold for the time of year, which is meant to be the start of Summer. Despite the chilly days, the (occasionally glimpsed) sun is still hot enough to burn and we soon acquired faces weathered red from the sun and blustery wind. After the comforts of Sydney, the camper was something of a shock and the cramped conditions seemed to aggravate the already irritable parents at first. The wonderful landscapes of the South Island soon distracted us though, and we settled into a routine after a couple of days. The small towns remind me a little of the mid-western US states - large farms, wooden houses and empty roads, yet there is still something quite British about New Zealand. Houses have quaint gardens with manicured lawns and rose beds. High streets have chip shops that sell battered cod and meat pies. South Island countryside is absolutely stunning. It’s as green as Ireland (‘Ireland, widescreen’, as Liam C puts it) yet with giant, alpine mountain ranges and turquoise lakes everywhere. Palm trees are mixed in with pines and multicoloured lupins. Endless yellow Scottish Broom looks just like the gorse of North Donegal. 
We wound our way south from Christchurch to Fairlie, to Lake Takapo and on to Wanaka, staying at campsites along the way. The sites are superbly equipped and well run and it is an excellent way to see the country. A shortcut via the Cardrona Road from Wanaka to Queenstown seemed like a good idea at the time until we realised – too late – that it was through the mountains. The campervan barely crawled up and down the steep sides and around the hairpin bends and we were relieved when Queenstown was finally in sight. Queenstown is the capital of extreme sports in NZ. Instead of standard shopfronts, every doorway advertises another whacky activity; some of the predictable sort such as tandem or bungy jumps; and a variety of other newly-invented ‘sports’ like river dogging (lying on a small board in a river) and canyon swinging. Anything to make a buck, even if some of the activities seem to have been invented last week. We had a laugh at a gangly young guy in a Cork GAA jersey, swinging through the canyon with a tricolour attached to his ankle. You’d never be stuck for something to do in Queenstown and wallets empty fast. Options for adventure sports are limited with kids in tow so we settled on ‘street luge’ as something that might please everyone. A purpose-built track starts at the top of the mountain nearby and descends over 800 metres. A trip to the top in a cable car and an open ski lift is included, and adults can double up with small kids for the kart descent. The kids got a variety of experiences for one price and the boys particularly enjoyed the humps in the track where the kart becomes airborne. Hazel, despite reservations, negotiated the course like a pro. A good day out for a reasonable sum, as Queenstown goes.New Zealand photos on Flickr
# posted by Ruth @ Monday, December 04, 2006 
